Italy’s competition watchdog has initiated an inquiry into beauty brands Benefit and Sephora. The investigation stems from concerns that these brands employed what has been described as a “particularly insidious” marketing approach, utilizing young online personalities to promote skincare products to children.
The Italian Competition Authority (AGCM) announced it had launched proceedings against the brands’ parent company, luxury goods conglomerate LVMH. The focus of the investigation is the alleged attempt to market anti-aging treatments to individuals under the age of ten. This action, the authority stated, may have contributed to a rise in “cosmeticorexia.” This term describes an unhealthy fixation on skincare among young people, a trend experts suggest is becoming more prevalent.
In response to the inquiry, LVMH issued a statement indicating their full cooperation with the authorities. However, the company declined to provide further comment, citing the ongoing nature of the investigation. AGCM confirmed that its officials, alongside members of Italy’s financial police, conducted inspections at the Italian headquarters of LVMH and Sephora on Thursday as part of the probe.
The authority posited that the companies may have failed to clearly indicate that their cosmetic products were not intended for children. Instead, the AGCM suggested, the brands seemingly encouraged children’s purchase of these items through covert marketing strategies that involved younger micro-influencers, individuals who typically command online followings in the thousands.
Central to this investigation are allegations of “possible unfair commercial practices.” These practices are linked to the premature use of adult cosmetics by young individuals, including the encouragement of potentially compulsive purchasing of products such as face masks, serums, and anti-aging creams by children under ten years old.
Sephora, with a significant online presence boasting nearly 23 million Instagram followers and over two million on TikTok, has found itself at the nexus of the “Sephora kids” social media phenomenon. This trend involves children sharing their personal skincare regimens and acquired products on various platforms. Numerous videos under hashtags like “Sephora kids haul” and “Sephora kids GRWM (Get Ready With Me)” document children purchasing and showcasing these beauty items.
Both the AGCM and the British Association of Dermatologists have issued warnings regarding the potential harm of skincare products to children. Medical professionals note that these products can lead to skin irritation, allergic reactions, and, in certain circumstances, lasting skin problems.
The AGCM also indicated that crucial warnings intended for children on Sephora and Benefit products might have been either omitted or presented in a misleading fashion. LVMH, a group that also owns brands in the alcohol, fashion, and jewelry sectors, affirmed in its statement that “All the companies reaffirm their strict compliance with applicable Italian regulations.”