The recent Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week brought a wave of creativity, celebrity presence, and fresh design perspectives. The event, a hallmark of high fashion, showcased not only established houses but also the exciting debut collections from new creative directors at iconic brands like Chanel and Dior. Furthermore, it marked the first Armani Privé couture presentation following the passing of its founder, Giorgio Armani.
The front rows of the exclusive four-day event, held biannually, were a constellation of famous faces. Among them were Victoria and David Beckham, Gracie Abrams, Dua Lipa, A$AP Rocky, and Rihanna, all gathered to witness the latest in high-end, handcrafted designs presented by a select group of 13 fashion houses.
The Essence of Chanel Under New Direction
A highly anticipated showcase was Chanel’s latest collection, helmed by its new chief designer, Matthieu Blazy. The Grand Palais provided a breathtaking backdrop, transformed into a whimsical setting with weeping willows and oversized toadstools adorning the runway.
Blazy, who had previously presented his ready-to-wear line in the same venue, expressed his intention to “probe and explore the heart of Chanel.” While nods to classic Chanel suits were evident, these were revitalized through contemporary fabrics and innovative treatments.
Speaking to WWD, Blazy elaborated on his creative process, stating, “I wanted to see whether, when you strip away the usual Chanel signatures – the tweed, the jewelled buttons – you can still get to that essence.” The collection also featured more avant-garde elements, notably the prominent use of feathers, drawing inspiration from a wide array of avian life, from common pigeons and crows to the more distinctive roseate spoonbill. His show notes described the appearance of “all kinds of birds, from the most familiar to the rarest, as if by magic.”
Dior’s Natural Vision: Jonathan Anderson’s Debut
Another significant moment was the debut haute couture collection for Dior by Northern Irish designer Jonathan Anderson. His presentation embraced nature, featuring ethereal silhouettes and a strong focus on floral motifs, including models wearing blossoms as earrings.
The entire Spring Summer 2026 show unfolded beneath a floral canopy, set against a mirrored runway. Anderson’s designs predominantly explored a monochrome palette, interspersed with vibrant bursts of orange, complemented by icy blues and soft pinks. Nature’s influence extended to the accessories, with a ladybug-shaped bag and a clutch that appeared to be adorned with sprouting grass.
Anderson, who also heads up Loewe, acknowledged the formidable nature of taking on Dior. He told The Guardian, “Everyone wants every designer right now to work out the brand like, tomorrow. But Dior is ginormous.” He emphasized his personal approach, stating, “My Dior is never going to be a formula, because my brain doesn’t work like that. I get bored too quickly.”
Valentino’s Bold New Chapter and Armani’s Pastel Embrace
In the wake of Valentino Garavani’s passing, Alessandro Michele presented his highly conceptual collection for Valentino. Guests were invited to experience the designs through a “kaiserpanorama” viewing station, offering a glimpse into an imagined alternate universe.
A standout piece was a batwing gown rendered in a specific shade of red, echoing the color used in Valentino’s very first collection over six decades prior. Lace, feathers, and intricate embellishments characterized the collection, with models styled to evoke the glamour of showgirls.
Meanwhile, eyes were also on Armani Privé for its first haute couture collection since the death of its founder, Giorgio Armani, at age 91. The creative direction for the new wardrobe was overseen by his niece, Silvana Armani, who aimed to create pieces that were “like classic Armani, but with a touch of originality.” The collection featured a delicate palette of pastel mint green and baby pink, showcased through jeweled satin trouser suits and shimmering evening gowns.
Elie Saab’s Journey Back to Beirut
Lebanese designer Elie Saab returned to his origins with his couture show, titled “Golden Summer Nights of ’71.” The collection offered a warm counterpoint to the Parisian chill, evoking Middle Eastern ambiance through a color scheme of blush pinks, bronzes, and desert hues.
Saab, who established his fashion house in Beirut in the 1980s, has consistently embraced maximalism. His latest presentation adhered to this philosophy, with abundant beading, elaborate ball gowns, and striking metallic fabrics taking center stage.
Celebrity Sightings and Notable Appearances
The week was also marked by the presence of numerous celebrities. Sir David and Lady Victoria Beckham were among the notable attendees, with Victoria Beckham receiving the Knight of the Order of Arts and Letters on the opening day of haute couture week. They were accompanied by three of their children.
Anna Wintour, Vogue’s global editorial director, attended the ceremony with the Beckhams and was a prominent figure on the front rows of various shows, alongside other luminaries such as Tilda Swinton, Nicole Kidman, and designer John Galliano.